Ballet shoes - for men?

Delicate is not a word usually used to describe men’s footwear. Chunky is more the norm, or rugged. And so when Jonny Johansson, the creative director of Acne, wore what looked like ballet pumps to the opening of his brand’s new London store the other week, all eyes were drawn to his feet. Was he about to plié?

Johansson was actually wearing shoes that were appropriate for the Mayfair location of his Dover Street store. His dress slippers were from the traditional shoemaker Tricker’s and hark back to the dandified heritage of the area, when dress slippers would have been an evening norm, worn whenever there was to be dancing, complete with their comfortable, quilted lining. “I’m not really a dressed-up guy, more of an easy guy,” he says. “I’m drawn to the mix of formal and informal, and the slippers just seemed suitable. Formal wear is very flattering for a man, but I like it when it’s more relaxed, more nonchalant.”

I have a confession: I own a pair of patent ballet pumps. They are by Dior Homme, dating back to when Hedi Slimane was at its helm. I remember seeing them on the catwalk in 2005 and being struck by their oddness, and the tricks their size played on the proportions of the outfit. I wore them with pride, until my friends saw them. They were appalled. It was like I was wearing something indecent. They have stayed in their box ever since.

To brave this look, a store like Tricker’s or Cleverley is the best bet, since it’s not a style which is coming to the high street soon. The closest version of the style can be found at American Apparel, which sells skimmer dress shoes by the US brand Hartwick, a slender, black, patent dance shoe which sits snug against the foot. It is the American Apparel style that suits this type of shoe best: skinny cuts, block bright colours and vaguely Eighties styling.

Maybe the closest most men will get to something delicate this summer will be the espadrille, the holiday staple that is now a regular sight in the city. Topman has them in cloth for £10, Asos in suede for £20. Their softness and lightness come as a relief after traditional shoes; it’s a relaxed feeling which spreads to the whole outfit. I used to have some leather espadrilles, too, which looked a bit like Johansson’s pumps. I’ve long since worn them out. Can I find a replacement pair? No.